From bruce@ashbysolutions.com Fri Dec 08 05:10:39 2006
Subject:Re: Voce V5 Percussion Upgrade in 17 steps

Hi Dave,

How are things?

A question about this post:

- Is he off by a factor of 10? You told me that the value of the resistor was 6.8K ohms, not 68K ohms. I haven't looked at one in a long time, but the last time I checked, the color coding on the resistors seemed to bear this out (6.8K 1%). I've been using a 5.6K resistor in parallel for all of my updates, which would make about 31K. I chose this as 7dB louder, and to stay a little back from possible clipping.

"It's R35 on the bottom of the PCB. It's currently 6.8K. Lowering it by
soldering another resistor over it will increase the percussion level.
However, I haven't published it because it may cause clipping in the output
if the level is too hot. Give it a try before you publish it. A resistor
between 6.8K and 3.3K soldered over top should do. Check for output
clipping. Use a lot of drawbars. Let me know what you think.

/Dave"

Regards,

-BW

--
Bruce Wahler
Design Consultant
Ashby Solutions™ http://consult.ashbysolutions.com
978.386.7389 voice/fax
bruce@ashbysolutions.com

At 04:17 AM 12/8/2006, jazzyfunky64 wrote:
>Hi -
>
>with the help of this forum (thanks to Dave, Andi and especially
>Ramon!) I was able to perform the percussion upgrade to my Voce V5.
>
>If you have soldered before, it is no rocket sience, you should be
>able to do that w/in 20 minutes or so.
>
>According to Dave R35 must be lowered to 22kOhms (original:
>68kOhms) - as the board is quite packed and w/ a special design (to
>combined boards) I recommend to solder in a 33kOhm resistor in
>parralel to R35 - which then results in a resistor of 22.217Ohms
>(1/Rsum=1/R1 + 1/R2 ... remembering the electronics theory class ;-
>) )
>
>So - how to do it? you find some pictures in a new album - here:
>http://launch.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/CloneWheel/photos/browse/a85e
>
>1. buy a 33kOhm resistor (small series) - (cost: 11c - ok, an
>expensive shop....)
>2. put the V5 onto a clean table
>3. pull all the drawbars out to the max
>4. unscrew the small black philips screw at the back and on both
>sides
>5. Pull off the knobs
>6. unscrew the line out nut and washer
>7. lift off the cover - you can see the upper board now (see
>http://launch.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/CloneWheel/photos/view/a85e?
>b=1 and
>http://launch.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/CloneWheel/photos/view/a85e?
>b=2)
>8. locate the four silverish philips screws. Screw them out.
>9. lift out the board and turn it round. (see
>http://launch.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/CloneWheel/photos/view/a85e?
>b=2) Watch for the white washers between the board!!! They are
>needed for proper alignment!
>10. Locate R35 - well marked on the board, you will find it at the
>fromt of the 7th and 8th drawbar
>11. Solder the 33kOhms resistor on top of R35 (see
>http://launch.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/CloneWheel/photos/view/a85e?
>b=4)
>12. The reassembly starts here.... after some fiddling I worked out,
>that the easiest way to do it is by putting the drwabars and faders
>to their max positions. Check well for aligment! Don't forget the
>white washers between the boards! Then turn the board and put it
>back in position. Shake the whole unit a bit until the board comes
>not just close but fits with the case - and try every single
>drawbar.
>13. repeat step 12 until all drawbars work well
>14. screw in the 4 silverish philips screws
>15. Put the orange cover back on top, put the knobs back onto their
>pots, screw the side and back screws in
>16. Enjoy the upgrade!!!! It is well worth it!
>17. Repeat 16 as often as possible!
>
>ciao,
>Stefan
>
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